I wanted to write a book that celebrates the love of cooking. You know, all we ever want to do in this house is get a free day so we can turn the stereo on, open a bottle of wine and call our friends and go to it with a leg of lamb or pork shoulder. We cook because we like to do it, love to do it, and that's sort of the unifying principle here: the joy of cooking for friends or with friends. And I chose each recipe in the book because they each contain some little kernel of discovery: an epiphany or technique or tool that changed my cooking life for the better.
What connects all of this?
Well, it's really just about enjoying the process as much as the flavors. I write this in the beginning of the book: A lot of people are proudest when they present their glorious, perfectly browned turkey to their guests, and that's their favorite moment of the process. For me, my favorite moment is when I start, when the pan gets hot and you put the oil in the pan and the aromas begin and the sizzling happens, and there's the promise of a great dish. I find that endlessly fascinating, and endlessly complicated, and, lo and behold, that's what I do for a living now on "Chopped.
We're all food critics, really, and I think the more we talk about it, the more we learn and the better our food becomes. Remove all but 2 tablespoons fat from the pan, add the onion, carrots, and celery, and cook over medium heat until soft but not browned, about 8 minutes.
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Add 4 of the garlic cloves and cook until fragrant, 1 minute. Push the vegetables to the side, add the tomato paste, and toast it on the bottom of the pan for 2 minutes. Stir into the vegetables.
Deglaze with the wine, scraping up the brown bits from the pan, and simmer until mostly evaporated. Arrange the meats in the pan, add the tomatoes and their juices, the beans, and 5 cups water; the beans should be covered by about an inch of water. Bring to a simmer, cover, and bake at a gentle simmer until the beans are tender, 60 to 90 minutes, checking after 45 minutes to make sure the beans are still covered with liquid and adding more if needed.
Taste and adjust the seasoning it will likely need more salt.
Cookbook review: 'In My Kitchen' by Ted Allen
Add the paprika, cayenne, and parsley, and pulse a couple of times. Evenly spread half of the bread crumb topping over the cassoulet, cover, and bake for 15 minutes; this helps to set the topping.
Remove the lid, sprinkle the remaining topping over the cassoulet, and bake, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Serve, making sure each serving includes the crispy topping and a taste of each of the meats. Couscous with carrots and sultanas. Carrots and swede mash.
In My Kitchen: Recipes and Discoveries for Passionate Cooks by Ted Allen
Parsnips and Carrots. Brisket, Carrots and Onions. Pickled jalapenos and carrots. Roasted Parsnips and Carrots. Braised carrots and fennel.
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